Wandering the Na Pali Coast

It was a raging wonderful Wednesday in the northeast of Kaua’i. That morning we spend time at the farmers market in Kapa’a checking what they got and ended up buying fresh organic produce that I cooked for our healthy dinner. Heads up to the national wildlife refuge after but unfortunately t’was close. I blame Covid-19 for the inconvenience. The plan doesn’t go well so we decided to drive heading north and maybe try to squeeze in the infamous Na Pali Coast hike. More than an hour drive, we took advantage charging our mobile phones to be picturesque-ready on the marvelous scenic from the coast. Hair flipping  and dancing through an open window as renegade followed the pave to our destination, that was a perfect joy ride ever.

But out of nowhere, the clouds change and drastically formed a greyish like-cotton and birds started to flew in flock. Immediately jump out from the car, walk as fast as we could to reach the starting point, I can feel the heavy breathing and the adrenaline inside me. But at this time my prayer didn’t work. Then a flash thought came in, we are in the part of Kaua’i where rain is abundant and it will be a blessing miracle if no rain flashes in two or three consecutive days. At .75 miles, we decided to turn our back and just enjoyed the rain back at .5 miles even though it scares me to the nth level thinking I’ll be descending on a muddy rock trail wearing my faithful sandal. At some point how I wish I have my own tiki nest in Kaua’i. Rain plus rainbow, anyone will be glad to witness this spectacular blessings from above. So off we go down as slowly as we could, trying to calm down my trembling self.

Na Pali Coast

To see the best of Kaua’i, definitely it is through the Na Pali Coast. The Na Pali Coast’s craggy green cliffs, eminent coastline, unreal hiking trails and ravishing waterfalls are the stuff Hawaiian dreams are made off.

Spanning 17 miles along Kauai’s North Shore and about 90 minutes North of Lihue, it rise as much as 4,000 feet (1,200 m) above the Pacific Ocean. This rugged coast will also leave you breathless and speechless at the same time. Imagine you are gazing above in an old pyramids at Cairo, that will be one of a lifetime experience anyone could ever have. 

A bit of adventure is required when it comes to exploring the Na Pali Coast. You have three different ways to choose; by air, by foot or by water – there are no roadways or vehicles allowed.

By Air. This will probably gonna be the highlight when you are in a bird’s eye perspective. Though this might be in anyone’s bucket list, personally I don’t care this much as there are couple of accidents happened from the past and it gives me phobia being up to the sky, being in an airplane to arrive a certain destination is enough for me to handle. But nevertheless, you can check here to gather ideas about Kauai helicopter flights.

By Foot. If you’d like to challenge yourself for some pretty splendid scenic view, hiking will probably excites you. I am not a pro-hiker but personally I love doing it by foot. Though it only gives you the side view of Na Pali it will draws you more closer to nature and will give you extraordinary connection to the ground. The full accessible Kalalau trail hike is 22 miles round trip that requires a hard to come permit that you can get in here which leads from Ke’e Beach to Kalalau Beach along the coast of Na Pali. But if you are a kind of a day hiker, the first two miles (4 miles roundtrip) is open free for you and will lead you to Hanakapi’ai Beach. Taking another 2 miles from the beach, it will give you a marvelous view of the Hanakapi’ai Falls (4 miles round trip) which will be a total of 8 miles back and forth if you’ll able to do this hike. That is the only free hike you can do. Continuing beyond this point requires a permit which you need to purchase in advance.

By Water. In this perspective, it will give you the sense of much appreciation on how glorious the stretch of its coastline. We tried booking this tour with Catamaran as they imposed Covid-19 tour rates that is cheaper on there normal rates but for some reason they told us to just cancel the booking. Maybe they haven’t achieve the quota of tourists per boat? That’s our mere guess! So I guess we have another reason(s) to come back in Kaua’i and thinking about it makes me gigglish excited. You can read more about boat charters in here.

The Juander Experience

I admit, I took this hike for granted. Stressing one’s self won’t help. I read several blogs saying the Kalalau trail is one of the dangerous hike in United States. Perhaps even the world. Isolated jungle, steep volcanic slopes and a pristine undeveloped beach at the end that is surely a total pack of nerve-racking adventure. But we are not going to hike the 22-mile round trip. I’m still positive that the 8-mile hike will be great, fun and easy.

On our way to attempt the hike for the second time. Just like yesterday, t’was a tremendous morning that welcomes us. By 0900 we are already sipping our coffee from the infamous Pono Market in Kapa’a. By 1100 we started our journey to finally cross this hike from our juanderlist.

Before the first serious step, I gradually scanning my surroundings. Peaceful and quiet. Every single cloud I see is placidly floating in the azure blue sky. Birds chirping with glee. I am contented. The break I truly need to quench my hunger for an adventure. Day pack bag from my hand to my back and we are off to hike back the .75-mile hoping this day will be a successful no rain day. You know, Na Pali Coast weather is so unpredicted. You’ll never know until you are in the middle of the hike.

Back to strenuous ascend. The ground is dry so as my throat. After one mile I’m enervated and famished. Yesterday the ground is like a chocolate milkshake flowing down, right now most part of the ground is extremely dry. We tried not to be daunt with the fiery caused by the daylight ball. We fear that we will be out of booze so every flowing stream we pass through, we make sure we drunk up using our palm and try to damp our muggy face to cool us off.

Three months had past since our last hike, no wonder my knees are weak and arms are heavy. The thought that this is gonna be an easy hike was now unclear. That 8-miles is only half the day. All of these thoughts are wrong. But we, bandits, are trying to enjoy it. The Kalalau trail is really an interesting hike. The lackluster part ain’t that boring. My eyes is full with the lush green color and a vast of the turquoise Pacific Ocean which is our view on the right bring so much tranquility. I cannot remember how many times I stopped just to stare the horizon and simply snap some of the wild flowers along the trail.

Alas! We finally arrived. Give ourselves a break for a couple of minutes at Hanakapiai Beach (2 miles) to freshen up. While we are still in the middle of pandemic you don’t want to hangout in the beach where a group of people scattered around. No one is wearing mask, so we just decided to cross a flowing stream with our legs stretching from one stone to another which some of them are even gigantic. Brace yourself, as the water is cold enough to shiver your legs. You don’t want to get your feet wet as this might sometimes cause to slow your pace. At this 2-mile hike, a malodorous bathroom is available for you to leak. We decided not to spent much time at the beach as our goal is the falls and come back before night fall. We are not the slow type hiker. Both of us happened to be a photo hobbyist that sometimes bandit and I have competition on who’s photo are better captured.

The additional two mile hike is more strenuous. More panting and throat is drying most of the time. This journey to the falls is also the start of my acid reflux to grumble, that means I need food to eat. A baked chicken, rice and a potato chips are saving grace for us especially to my monstrous tummy. All thanks to Big Save Hanalei location which we did a quick stop to grab some refreshments and kine for this hike.

Like many Hawaiian waterfalls, Hanakapi’ai waterfalls was marvelously hidden on the valley of Hanakapi’ai. Surrounded by misty green floras, abundant vegetation, verdant ferns and its booming 300ft falls down like a gift from above which then created an emerald ice pool that will challenge anyone to dip. Freezing cold but worth the trip. This waterfall located in the depths of the jungle is not an easy hike though. Boulders, mud, roots and sometimes the strong current of the streams that you need to cross are few of the obstacles that you will encounter along the trail. From bamboo forest to the breathtaking boulders, hiking back to the Ke’e Beach is truly an accomplishment for us. Focus every steps you take especially when you cross the streams. Taking steps seriously from rock to other rock to avoid further serious injuries. The most scary part is when you need to climb the steep wet red rock. You gonna be cautious on what you are stepping and holding if you don’t want to get fall from that steep boulder. Passing all of these is truly a blessing that will be added on your experience. Achieving this hike will give you enough dose of the Na Pali Coast without a full-blown experience of the total 22-miles Kalalau trail.

Juander Tips & Reminders

1. Weather in this side of the island is unpredictable. Always bring your waterproof jacket and wear dri-fit clothes to make yourself comfortable.
2. There is no perfect footwear for this hike, but I recommend you wear the most comfortable hiking shoes you got with you. Bringing extra hiking sandal will also be a good idea just in case.
3. This trail is very humid, bring enough water with you to keep yourself hydrated.
4. For those who got acid reflux or GERD better bring food with you and some trail mix to help divert your mind from getting anxious along the trail.
5. Bring insect repellant with you just in case those fat mosquitos started feasting on you.
6. If you plan to hike the total 22-mile, please ensure your permit ahead of time in here.
7. Some wild plants along the trail are not that friendly. Be assiduous on what you’re holding.
8. Make sure your phone or camera’s battery is fully charged. You don’t want to miss any picturesque view along this hike.
9. The hike is open 0630 until sunset, make sure to come back on the jumpstart before sunset. Ensure a head lamp with you to help access more clearer trailhead.
10. This is not an easy hike. Take time to give yourself a break. Remember, this is not amazing race.
11. Last but definitely not the least, please observe the number one principle at all times, the “LEAVE-NO-TRACE POLICY”

Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.

John Muir